October 14, 2022

We came back to Rome just for a couple of days so Randy could visit the Galleria Borghese. This museum was too crowded in 2019 to visit. At that time, reservations were booked-up several months in advance and we missed it. The Galleria Borghese is home to the largest collection of Gian Lorenzo Bernini marbles and a large number of Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio paintings and a few from Leonardo Da Vinci and Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarroti Simoni (known simply as Michelangelo). It really is amazing! It’s also located in a rather large park in Rome and provides quite a nice break from the chaotic, bustling life of the Eternal City. Apologies for the “stacked” format, but I am struggling with size differences in pictures and this seems to work best for actually seeing the print.

So let’s take a look at some marbles starting with what is probably the most famous in the Borghese - Apollo and Daphne. The marble statue expresses the climax of Ovid’s Metamorphoses and captures in stunning detail that very moment that Daphne turns into a tree to escape the ravages of Apollo. You’ll see a painting overhead of almost every statue in the Borghese. Most of the carvings all have a corresponding painting above to help further relay the story of what you are seeing.

Take a look at the following. We have the Rape of Proserpina, another David, this one by Bernini (not to be confused with Michelangelo’s famous David in Florence), and Pauline Bonaparte, sister of Napoleon, reclining. Note that she sinks slightly into the sedan, and the wrinkle and sheen of the fabric. All sculpted marble!

We did also see some great paintings. There were several from Caravaggio, and other painters, including Da Vinci. You’ll note in Caravaggio’s paintings that he painted darker and darker over time: both in theme and actual paint! Once Caravaggio started dark backgrounds, others copied.

Sacred & Profane Love - One of Italy’s cherished paintings. Note the balance in many aspects.

Not a painting - a micro mosaic.

We didn’t do much more exploring in Rome this trip, but I did sneak out for a twilight walk while Randy managed a long nap. The Roman ruins light up at sunset and you can see detail that normally is in shadow or blinding sunlight during the day. It was a nice time to be out. I highly recommend a sunset visit to the Forum and Colosseum if you get a chance.

Casa dei Cavalieri di Rodi. Sited in the ruins of the Forum of Augustus, built by the Knights Hospitaller at the end of the 13th century, used since 1946 by their successors, the Sovereign Military Order of Malta.

Apartment from Roman times still in use.

Modern apartments nestled against the ancient Forum.